John Galliano: Ladylike Erotica

If any designer is having a good fashion season it has to be Bill Gaytten, whom after a highly accomplished show for Christian Dior two days ago, staged a suggestively seductive collection for the house of John Galliano on a rainy Sunday, March 4, in Paris.

Inspired by English illustrator Aubrey Beardsley, this fall 2012 collection was thoroughly revealing, and not just because the chiffon fabrics outlined the elan figures of the clever casting, but also for unveiling Gaytten's ability to create clothes in the Galliano style.

This veteran designer, who worked for Galliano for over a decade and a half, wowed from a Tudor era start, with alluring drop-dead sexy silhouettes, mixes of see-through chiffon and courtly costume silk. Combining mini capes, slinkily cut bias cut cocktails and micro pleat skirts, the models marched out into the all-black setting through a cloud of dry ice.

Gaytten also managed to riff on the Galliano tradition of deconstruction though with his own touch, keeping it tougher and adding fox fur arms and panels. Done up with matching tights, garter belts and saucy padded booties, the models emoted all the way down the runway, clearly enjoying the edgy sexuality.

For winter, Gaytten plans to wrap his ladies in mohair plaid, cut like Restoration dandies, though underneath the whole semi-sheer look kept the mood red hot. Beardsley, known for his erotic fantasies, obsession with mythology and famed images of Salome, would have loved this show. It re-ignited his love of sexuality, and the power it grants women.

The designer was also blessed with some fantastic hats from Stephen Jones, fabulous assemblies of peacock and crow feathers. Add a cast that clearly loved the clothes and this was a sure-fired hit for Gaytten - a perfect finale for this quiet Englishman, who lingered happily at his bow, the audience applauding lustily.
Via: John Galliano: Ladylike Erotica

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